I stumbled upon one of my favorite sports books the other day. Was looking for a nice book for my injured brother and then found 'Eddie would go'. It is a book that describes a lot of the big wave surfing in its early years. Great Hawaiian cultural insights as well. Absolutely loved it.
I bought this book in a youth hostel in Borneo a couple of years ago. It is a great book to read on the beach because it has such a beachy feel to it.
Just go with the flow!
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